Pretty in Peja

One might think that being set at the base of the Accursed Mountains might be... well... a curse. And if you used a period about 10 years ago as a point of reference, that might be true. The tiny town of Peja (PAY-ya) in western Kosovo has had it's dark days. Bombed heavily by both NATO and Serb forces, the village was all but wiped off the map. But even the deepest of scars can be healed.

Straddling the Bistrica River, which pours out of a beautiful mountain

gorge, the town of Peja certainly has it's setting going for it. The place has long been a source of inspiration (as far back as the ancient Greeks). As a matter of fact, Peja is so sacred it spawned the country's #1 beer, the aptly named Peja beer. And from the ashes and rubble of war, eateries have sprung. The downtown core has pretty much been completely re-built, remodelled and modernized. It is now the place to see and be seen. Cafes, restaurants and fast food joints line the pedestrian plaza. Youth, surprisingly skilled in the art of attraction, snazzy themselves up as they strut up and down the 150 meter cobbled stretch of territory. The good news is things are still cheap as chips. A plate of freshly smoked meat, salad, fresh bread and a Peja beer (of course) go for a few Euros. And city-dwellers make their way up from Pristina for the weekend to prop themselves at a cafe and chill.

Wandering the sidestreets, you may wonder where all the history has

gone. Everything seems new. But even amongst the modernity, Peja still retains a very laid-back "village" atmosphere. Horses and tractors are a common sight fighting for parking spaces with shiny new Mercedes and BMWs. While the new buildings have all but erased the scars of war, there are still signs. A few amputees and homeless beg on the streets. Although it isn't nearly as bad as other post-war regions i've visited. One of the stranger indications is the male-female ration, as there are girls a-plenty in a shallow pool of testosterone.

For those hoping for something more on the old side, the UNESCO listed Patriarchate of Pec Monastery awaits on the outskirts of town. The entire

complex is a wonderfully, magnificent serene location. The still active homes of the holy have a beautifully manicured garden surrounding the main church, all magically placed in the cradle of forested mountains. While there has been restoration, the frescoes in the church are mainly untouched. The whole place transports you back to the Middle Ages when the area was of vital importance to Medieval Serbs. But, the walled complex did not go overlooked by the EU/UN troops keeping peace in the new country. A base was set up on the grounds, and as such, visiting involves a bit of a song and dance. Visiting hours are between 11-5, and you MUST bring your passport. The occupying troops (Slovenian when i visited) must get clearance for you to visit. And due to the military sensitivities, photos are strictly forbidden (my shot here is from the internet). A taxi from the town centre should cost more than 3 Euros for there-wait-and back.

There are hiking and caving opportunities also available in the area, which i didn't look into. Peja is well connected with the rest of the country with a seemingly constant flow of buses to Pristina, Prizren and to places unknown. All for 3-4 Euros, depending on destination.

Overall, Peja makes for a great escape from the hustle and bustle of the big city, Pristina. Life is simple, the air is fresh and the beer is free-flowing. Truth be told, the town will never be a major tourist draw. But that's part of the charm. I was the only non-regional, non-miltary guy in town. And that's not a sensation that is easy to come by in Europe anymore. Peja is definitely worth a visit if in the area.