Some places are worth going back to. Although my goal is to continuously explore the unknown, there are times when either by design or accident i end up visiting the same place again and again. In 2004, i found myself wandering through the Balkan states, as i was moving from one contract to another. Part of this trip had me travelling through the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia (FYROM). And by some bizarre combination of circumstances, 7 years later fate had me do a revisit.
Like many countries around the world, the capital city acts like a hub transport ushering in travellers and dispersing them about the rest of the territory.
Macedonia is no different with the city of Skopje playing the role of capital. When i visited 7 years ago, i came across a city rich in history with varied religions and full of possibilities. Fresh off the dissolution of the Yugoslavia and with ethnic tensions high in the region (including full scale war) Macedonia was still trying to find it's feet. Skopje was very rough around the edges, but some might have called it a diamond in the rough. A few decent tourist attractions in the form of a hilltop fort and centuries old stone bridge could have become anchors for a small, but reliable tourism industry. At least, that was my impression 7 years ago.
The city hasn't seemed to have progressed at all. Money appears to
be funnelled into mega-consturction project designed for ego, while basic infrastructure like water and transportation are allowed to rot. Skopje is a dirty city with a distinct aroma of urine. The few attractions are in a perpetual state of reconstruction. With most of the projects occurring around the Stone Bridge, the whole area is an unattractive site. And the old fort on the hill is closed until further notice while they excavate some old sites. The main squares, supposedly meant to socialize while enjoying a coffee are unattractive fenced off disaster areas. The museums are ordinary at best. And the one-time exotic Turkish Quarter has been nearly entirely sterilized into a Disney-version of it's old self. And to top it off, the hotels are very overpriced, and horrible value for money.
But adding insult to injury, is the respect shown to the city's most
famous child. Mother Teresa was born in Skopje. Although she was the humblest of women, the tribute to her life in the city is a shame. Her statue stands along side several others, one of a woman in a mini-skirt talking on her mobile and another of a boy shining shoes. There seems to be no difference in appreciation between them. And while her childhood home was destroyed many years ago, the memorial house they erected in it's place is an atrocity. I am not a religious man, but i somehow found it personally offensive. While some kiss the statues, others just sit and have a smoke in the covered area. The whole thing is just distasteful and shows utter irreverence for a woman that clearly deserves much better. Shame a shame, an absolute pity.
It is entirely possible that Skopje might yet live up to some sort of potential. Perhaps given another 7 years to mature, it might be palatable. But i, for one, will not be going back to find out.
2 comments:
Hey Joe, My husbad is in Skopje this week, after a week in Budapest. He is coming home this weekend. He's an adventurer at heart. He loved Budapest. After a couple of days in Skopje, he is ready to come home. Not like him! After reading about your visit in Skopje, I better understand. I enjoyed stopping by. Added your blog to my Pinterest for future reading. Thanks and enjoy your travels.
It's a shame. I remember the place had so much potential when i first visited it years ago. But i was really let down on the recent visit.
Post a Comment