Membership has its privileges. 'Cause let's face it, i'm never going to be a rich man working in the places i do at the jobs i choose. So instead of monetary gains, i hope for experiential enrichment. With my latest job in Iraq, that's exactly how things are. The best part about working on a cultural conservation project in the cradle of civilization, is i get to work with many experts of their field. Most recently this paid off as i was given an exclusive look into the Citadel of Erbil by one of the restoration projects archeologists.
Iraqi Kurdistan isn't exactly over-flowing with what one might call "tourist attractions".
But arguably the biggest highlight comes in the form of a mini-village perched on an ancient mound smack-dab in the middle of the Erbil basin. If the Citadels website is to be believed, it is the oldest continuously inhabited place on Earth, dating back 8,000 years. But the truth is, nobody really knows. The 30 meter mound on which the town now sits is likely a culmination of countless previous incarnation piled on top of one another. No excavations have taken place. As of 5 years ago, the town was in full swing. Completely inhabited by locals going about the daily local life. But there was no upkeep of the 200-300 year old buildings. It became a hazard. And the decision was made to kick everybody out (except for 1 family) to revitalize the place.
What this means for today's tourist is 95%of the city is closed off,
completely off limits to the uninvited guest. This means different things to different people. The main central thoroughfare is open to the public so this is no problem. However, technically speaking, no one is allowed to stray from this main street. There are armed guards to ensure nobody does. Unfortunately, due to the increasingly lackadaisical attitude towards security, they are unlikely to stop foreigners unless the boss is on shift. Meaning, you could possibly wander around anywhere you want. I wasn't willing to take the chance which is where my contact came in handy. I was given an all access pass to ramble in and out of any building of my choosing. And with my friend, a local archeologist working on the restoration, I was brought to some of the more interesting houses. But i'll let you in on a little secret. It ain't that big a deal.
For the most part, the houses are single story homes with a couple of
simple square rooms. They are devoid of any artistry or decoration. If you know where to look (or are shown) there are a couple little things here or there of mild interest, but little spectacular. However, a few of the more stately homes are in the midst of complete overhaul by foreign teams. These once glorious homes are slowly being returned to their once proud state. Fountains, ceiling murals and decorative nooks are being painstakingly refurbished. My archeologist guide was not happy with this as the Disneyfication was not the path he would have chosen. But all renovation seem to be in-line with UNESCO guidelines, with hope of having the site declared within the next couple years.
Even with it's limited access to the majority of the homes, the Citadel in Erbil is unquestionable the architectural highlight of any visit to Kurdistan. And at a whooping admission fee of ZERO, you can't complain about the price. Besides, being elevated some 30 metres above the city gives an excellent view over the market below. And who knows? If you're lucky, you might get to play volleyball with the guards.
5 comments:
Cool! I've always thought that the oldest place in the world to be continuously inhabited would be found in India. I wonder how it is to live in the oldest inhabited place on Earth, My hubby and I have been planning the Middle East, I hope we'll get here soon.
Hey Cindy,
If you Google "oldest civilization", you will come up with Mesopotamia (now Iraq)
It is really good to read all the information here. I woulr like to invite you to Myanmar too.
Thanks,
I was in Myanmar is December 2006. I LOVED it. The reason it's not on my blog is this blog is only 3 years old. So i have only included my travels since late 2008.
Fascinating. Four years ago I visited the citadel and had free run of the whole place then,looking in all the nooks and crannys and taking photos of the suddenly evacuated homes. Nobody seemed to care about me wandering off wherever. It literally 'was' the aftermath of quite a sudden exit. On my hard drive there is a bunch of photos of the odditys in the rooms such as scraps of school exam papers from the early 90s.
One of the most interesting finds was part of an official document in one of the rooms which gave the game away that somebody had plans of the kind you're detailing here but it mentioned something about a 'resort' plan as such for the citadel, making part of it into a sort of 'traditional' resort complex (think the 'Silk Road Hotel in Yazd but on a higher paying clientele basis and you get the idea). I forget the name of the company involved, as I lost the paper later. I wonder if the disneyfication you mention may give a hint about the true motive of the whole project going on? Locals told me at the time that the 're-location' of the people was rather controversial too.
Apparently they were given a certain amount of compensation but it wasn't much. Prior to that I'd heard the re-location was all about archaeology and saving heritage. Later on I wasn't so sure. Iraqi Kurdistan is being seen as a place for investment.
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