Preikestolen & Kjerag

France has the Eiffel Tower. Egypt has the Pyramids. China has the Great Wall. While these countries are in no way limited to these individual iconic symbols, they have somehow come to be represented by them. Norway doesn't have such a emblem. For a country renowned for its nature, it's difficult to pinpoint a single image to capture the essence of the place. So instead, it has two. Both being rocks at the end of easy access hiking. Preikestolen (Pulpit's Rock) and Kjeragbolten (the floating boulder) are as iconic as it gets in Norway.One good thing about ice ages is as they ended, the glacial scarring left on the face of the Earth is more often than not absolutely spectacular. The fjords of Norway are certainly no exception. In the south-west of the country, near the town of Stavanger, begins one of the country's most beautiful fjords. The 42km long Lysefjord is nothing short of breath-taking. Boat trips make the journey to Lysebotn at the end. The whole time the towering granite cliff sides caress the waters edge. You feel simultaneously belittled and freed at the same time.

But to truly get perspective on nature's glory, you need to see it from

above. There is perhaps no place better than Preikestolen (Pulpit's Rock). A 45-minute ferry connecting to a 30 minute bus brings you right to the base of the hike. If you only make it this far, it might be good enough. A hostel is set up on the edge of a beautiful lake. But it is the 2-hour hike (each way) people come here for. Although not particularly steep, the river stone walkway can make the trail difficult to find your stride. Based on the people who made it to the top, i'd say the hike would be an adventurous, though easy hike. As you approach the top, the trail splits to the Hill Route and the Cliff Route (the cliff is easier). Finally, you emerge onto a large monolith dangling precariously over the fjord, 600m below. It is not for the faint of heart. And have no illusions that you will be the only one up there. As the most popular hike in the country, it can be quite busy.

To get to Preikestolen is very easy. There is a boat/bus combination out of Stavanger from the main ferry company, Tide. You need a ferry to Tau, then a bus to the base of the hike. Ferries run every 30 minutes, but only ferries at 8:00am, 9:30am, 11:00am (and so on 1.5 hourly) meet up with the bus. It costs 200 NOK for the return ferry/bus trip. You could book ahead or just buy on the ferry.

But this fjord is no 1-hike-wonder. At the end of the fjord, starting well

above the village of Lysebotn, is a far more challenging hike. Kjerag is a completely different type of trek with a similar reward at the end. In comparison to Preikestolen's fairly flat, river stone pathway under a forest canopy, Kjerag is a fully exposed, 60+ degree pitch slog over bare mountain granite. Chains have been bolted along some of the steeper sections as the assistance is very much needed for some near vertical ascents. To further complicate matters, the top of Kjerag is several hundred meters highly than Preikestolen meaning that very foul weather is not only possible, but highly likely. My CouchSurfing host told me that of all the CSers he's had, only 1 had nice weather climbing Kjerag. Not great odds. Being a more technical hike means it's also longer, 5 hours for the round trip. At the end awaits a 5m3 boulder wedged between the cliff sides,

suspended nearly 1,000 meter above the fjord below. There might be no other more famous image then tourist braving the rock. It is absolutely certain death if you fall. But here's the real kicker. The only public transport to the sight is the same company, Tide, as the Preikestolen hike. There is only 1 service a day (490 NOK) leaving Stavanger at around 8am. The ride is 2.5 hours, meaning by the time the 4:45pm return service leaves Kjerag, you might only get 6 hours in order to do the hike. It's a real rush. I was shocked at just how unprepared some people were. I saw idiots trying the hike in shorts and sandals (they quickly turned back) It is posted everywhere, but good footwear, a rain jacket, food and water are absolutely essential. There is a cafe at the base of the hike with expectedly high prices.

I can assume what the number 1 question will be, "Which is better?". Well, it a matter of opinion. But here are the facts, Preikestolen is much easier, cheaper and less nerve racking. Kjerag is more technically challenging and less touristy (not that many make it to the top). I'm glad i got to do both as i would not want to choose between 2 great, iconic Norwegian hikes.