Friday, September 2, 2011

Bustlin' Bergen

All i can say is book early. Norway maynot be a world leader in terms of tourism numbers, but you can bet that darn near all of the 5.4 million tourists to the area will stop in one of 2 places. The capital, Oslo and the coastal city of Bergen. While Oslo can handle those sort of number, Bergen is a different story.
With a population of just under 300,000, Bergen may well be Norway's second largest city, but it by no means a metropolis. And the place does retain a small
town feel. That is as long as you don't visit in summer. Tourism in the coastal town has exploded in the last decade or so, due largely to cruise visits. The number of boats visiting have more than doubled in the last 20 years. With passenger numbers sextupling. That means nearly 300,000 visitors arrive by boat alone every year. If figuring in land and air arrivals, Bergen's population is dwarfed by the nearly 1.5 million invading sightseers. These numbers might not mean anything to the average traveller until you try to find a place to stay. As i arrived in town, late in August, i passed the Tourist Information office with an ominous sign on the door, "No beds in Bergen Centre tonight"! I count my lucky stars i already had a CouchSurfing place set-up.
Bergen is sort of a perfect storm of tourism. Beautifully set along a thin strip
where forested hills fall into the ocean, the natural setting is a pretty one. Bergen is also a great staging point for exploration into the Fjords. Norway in a Nutshell being a very popular tour. When you couple this with the UNESCO listed Bryggen (the old wharf of Bergen) it is no surprise people flock here. The 300 year old, Old Wharf area is a pleasure to stroll around, although a little touristy for my liking. The best part is, if you carry on for one or two streets in any given direction, you can most definitely leave the hordes behind. The side streets of town are lovely and having them to yourself enhances the experience. Sure, it may not be the same as the Disney-fied wooden boardwalks and narrow alleyways of the wharf area itself, but the charming pastels and little ornate trimming are pretty in themselves.
The city is no one-hit-wonder. There are a number of museums worth
checking out, including the Hanseatic museum. The Torget, waterfront fish market, is always overflowing with camera toting sexagenarians and even the occasional fish. There are towers, forts and churches around every corner. There's also the very popular Floibanen funicular and Ulriksbanen (Mount Ulriken cable car). Each offer great views over the city and surrounding area. And if that wasn't enough, the city is host to a number of festivals, including the Bergen International Festival, and increasingly major international acts like Rihanna and doing shows in the town. Even with the dizzying number of things to see and do in a small town, for me, it was simply the pretty architecture and quaint side streets that were the main attraction. Especially once you break free from the crowds.

Bergen is really nice, although a little too touristy for my liking (actually WAY too touristy). But it is easy to see why the place appeals to so many. I enjoyed my time there, although i am not exactly in a rush to go back.

4 comments:

catherineelise said...

great post! the last photo reminds me of where i live in Chile! Thanks for the information, i hope to visit norway one day!

Simon Lee said...

I have been to Bergen last year, no doubt, this is a very interesting city.

Simon

Adam said...

Wow, didn't expect you to suddenly pop up in Norway when I came back to this blog (last time I looked,you were in the Erbil Citadel). I was in Norway a month ago, trekking and wild camping. My own tent, stove, etc. This way meant I could be there for a few weeks without it completely emptying my bank account. Damn expensive nevertheless, but just about possible if backpacking.

This is Joe! said...

Yes, i get around. I'm back in Erbil. I just needed some time away in a place that was as opposite to Iraq as possible. That was Norway :)