Oslo Pace of Life

Backpackers are really missing out. The seemingly oppressive expense of travelling Norway has long kept away budget minded travellers. $100 a day for the most basic food, shelter and transport might be enough to keep anyone away. While Oslo is not exempt from the expense, an unexpected subculture has arisen in the capital which would undoubtedly allure the stereotypical backpacker. Although not as impressive as Stockholm or as quaint as Reykjavik, Oslo offers up a certain funk which would bewitch most backpackers.

Scandinavians always seem to take advantage of the sun while they have it. And Oslo is certainly no exception. Countless outdoor cafes and beer gardens abound with locals and tourists, especially along the pedestrianized Carl Johans Gate. While many of these places in the centre are slightly trendier, it is the East end of the city, south of Torshov that things are a little cooler. Tattoo parlours and piercing shops make sure than local youth are appropriately tagged and labelled. Bars with all sorts of music are around every corner. And while the area might not have the best reputation (especially with the West Enders) it's heaps of fun.

But, of course, the city has it's fair share of culture as well. Home to

the Nobel Foundation, Oslo is littered with excellent museums, galleries and theatres. Not the least of which is the National Gallery. A who's who of the art world can be seen hanging on the walls. And while the Gallery (and other sites in the city) used to be free, they almost all charge these days. The good news is the Oslo Pass makes thing a little more affordable for the museum-o-philes out there. Fact is, you could spend a couple days alone visiting all the museums and such in the city.

For those on more of a budget (hard to do in Oslo) or for those who prefer

the outdoors, the city's Vigeland Park is a definite highlight. With some 200+ granite and bronze statues from Norway's most famous sculptor, Gustav Vigeland, the park is full of quasi-pornographic statues. The centrepiece being the rather unsubtly phallic pillar. Arguably the best part of the park is watching sexagenarian cruise ship tourists overcome their sexual inhibitions to take rather risque pictures in uncomfortably compromising positions. A great opportunity for blackmail photos.

But what i found most surprising was that the best part of the city wasn't mentioned in the guide books. The Akerselva River bisects the capital into the trendy west and the alternative east. Home of the city's industrialization in the 1850s, the old mills and warehouses have been wonderfully retro-fitted into cafes and bars. The adjacent parks is full of joggers and bikers. It is a complete escape from the city.

For those looking for more traditional landmarks, Oslo has a couple

of those too. The new Opera & Ballet House is at the heart of the city's waterfront revitalization project. The somewhat downtrodden area of town is quickly being transformed into a sterile place where the chances of being accosted are diminishing daily (aka boring). The Oslo Castle (Akershus Slott) sits atop an outcropping giving ok-ish views back over the harbour. While the castle itself costs a few NOK (free with the Oslo Pass) the grounds are free to wander around. And that's not to mention the central Royal Palace, worth the slight uphill walk.

It is almost certain that Oslo will never become a budget traveller's Mecca. But i really liked the feel of the place. Part museum, part grunge concert the city pulls off an excellent Jekyll & Hyde. This is not your average Scandinavian capital.