Bearin' my Soles in Lalish

I like the unique, the special and the uncommon. When you can mix that with unknown, uncharted and untravelled, it's almost a guaranteed winner. We've all heard of grand holy pilgrimage sites like The Vatican or Mecca, but few, if any, know about Lalish.

The village of Lalish itself, 60 km north-west of Mosul in Iraq, is rather indistinct. Although the setting is pretty enough, wedged into a narrow valley, there isn't much a village. Most locals, not from the immediate area, have a tough time finding it. However, if you happen upon a practitioner of the Yazidi faith, they'll know exactly where it is.

The Yazidi faith is often called an off-shoot of Islam. That's not entirely

true. While there are many elements of Islam in the belief, it's like saying Buddhism is Hindu. The Yazidism-for-dummies version would be a bit like this. God created an angel, Melek Taus (represented by a peacock), from his "light". God then created 6 other archangels. God asked Melek Taus and his brethren to bring him some dust, from which he created Adam. God told the angels to bow to the new creature (Adam) but Melek Taus refused. God thought this was cool and promoted Melek Taus to "representative of God on Earth". But here's the problem. This sounds a lot like the beginnings

of Islam, but replace Melek Taus with Jin Iblis. The BIG difference is, Muslims believe that because Jin Iblis refused the command of God he was banished to hell and became Shaitan (Satan). So for Muslims, they see the Yazidi as Devil worshippers. Worldwide, there are only about 600,000 Yazidi people. Yazidism is only inherited through birth, you cannot convert to the faith. Furthermore, Yazidi are forbidden from marrying outside the religion. This is taken very seriously as illustrated by the stoning death of a young girl when she fell in love with a Muslim. Normally, the village of Lalish is pretty empty, even though it's the Holy City of the religion due to the tomb of Sheikh Adi bin Musafir. But i'm not the kind of traveller who want to visit a couple of buildings. I, instead, opted to go during the biggest festival of the year, "The Feast of the Assembly"

Without question, visiting Lalish during a festival is the best time to go.

While there isn't much pomp or circumstance, the people watching is spectacularly spectacular. Many people are adorned with traditional clothing and jewelry. Elders gather to discuss current events, including the Prince of the Yazidi (middle photo above). The people are warm and friendly, and completely welcoming of foreigners (even during a festival) There are offers of help around every corner. This is genuine hospitality, as no gratuities are expected for guiding, food or anything.

But a visit outside of festival times is still worth it. In general, the

buildings and shrines are unspectacular and in desperate need of restoration. Inside many of the tombs and shrines you will find brightly coloured fabrics draped in many locations. Here, you make a wish/pray to God, then tie a knot in the fabric to have it answered. There is also a pillar where you throw a cloth hoping it sticks on top, if it does, you win a car (or something like that) There is also a shrine with a pillar where if you are able to reach around and have you fingers touch, you will have a long life. You can climb the stairs behind the main shrine for a view over the valley and houses below. There is no signage what-so-ever in the village, and you will have to pass security at the base of the hill. It is unlikely that you will need more than an hour or two to see and do everything, twice or even 3 times.

Getting to Lalish is tough. there is no public transport, meaning you will need a private taxi. A taxi and driver for the day will be 40,000-50,000 IQD from Dohuk, and 100,000+ IQD from Erbil. There are no tourist facilities in Lalish, and i didn't notice any in the nearby towns. Meaning this can only be done as a long day trip.

There are a few rules to follow when visiting Lalish to not offend locals:

1) Shoes are strictly forbidden inside the shrines/temples, and generally frowned upon in the village as a whole. Go barefoot.

2) The door thresholds are Holy are are not to be stepped on, sat on or leaned against.

3) Lettuce is apparently forbidden. But i was unable to confirm this.

4) Do not spit on the ground when in Lalish.

5) DO NOT speak of the Devil or ask about Shaitan.

6) There is no strict dress code, i saw locals with blue jeans and t-shirts. But as a general rule err on the side of "respectful".

G) Of note, there is no cell phone reception in Lalish (at least no Korek). So don't expect to call your driver when ready to leave.

Lalish of certainly unique, if not unspectacular. If you can arrange to be here for the first week of October (Feast of the Assembly) or April for New Year (Sar-Sal Eid) you'll definitely be in for a treat.