Afternoon at the Museum

Some might call Aden boring. However, using such a definitive, blanket statement is not only unfair, but untrue. I would prefer to say Aden is largely deficient is significant venues or activities traditionally perceived as entertaining. If only visiting the city for a day or two, there's more than enough to fill the time. However, living here, most of your free time is spent planning trips out of the city. But, as they say, if life gives you lemons, take a big bite into them even though all the muscles in your face will instinctively convulse.

So, in an effort to just simply get out of the house, i opted to check

out the Military Museum in the Crater. Sadly, even with Yemen's brilliant history and culture, it simply isn't a place known for a high caliber of museums. Aden, and it's military museum, are no different. The museum is house in a very eye-catching building. I have tried to find out what it was originally used for, but nobody seems to know. Bored "guards" sit in the lobby screaming out, "welcome" to any foreign looking passers-by. It's about the only English they know. But as with the rest of Yemen, they do their best to bridge the communication barriers, signalling the cost with hand gestures, pointing in the direction for the start of the display all the while flashing as much of a smile as they can muster in what would otherwise be a simple transaction.

Frankly speaking, the museum is not a highlight of the country,

or even of Aden for that matter. But it is a way to kill some time. Displays are concentrated into main 4 halls on 2 floors. While some displays are equally label in both English and Arabic, the majority do not have any English at all. There aren't any pieces of significance, nor any quirky little something-or-others you sometimes manage to stumble upon randomly in other places. But the good news is it is air-conditioned, and pictures seems to be allowed, which is more than you can say for most other museums. The whole thing will cost 200 YR for the honour of strolling around. There didn't seem to be any opening hours posted in clear sight. I was there at noon on Thursday (almost like the Sheryl Crow song), shockingly there were even a couple of locals wandering around the displays as well. The museum is located in the Crater, near the municipal market, pretty much next to the main library on one of the main roads. its impossible to miss.

Thrill on Silent Hill

It can be cool living in a volcano. Once you get rid of the noxious fumes and the death-dealing molten lava that is. The heart of Aden (in southern Yemen) is in such a place. An ancient volcano, long since extinct, is only recognizable by it's circular crater. It is here that most locals and tourists come to eat, drink (juice that is) and be merry. But simply being surrounded by the saw-toothed hills which envelope the town isn't enough for some. I'm not the kind of guy who climbs hills just for the sake of climbing. I generally need a more tangible reason. Luckily, on one of the outcropping sits the Tower of Silence (best name ever).

Although it usually comes to the surprise of many tourists, Yemen

actually has quite a diverse history. Conquering armies, trading caravans and colonial occupiers have all made their mark in the history and culture of Yemen. Although predominantly Muslim (around 99.9%) there was a time of religious heterogeneity. One of these groups included the fire-worshiping religion of Zoroastrianism. Often mistaken as a fire worshipping religion, it was one of the first (if not THE first) monotheistic religions (belief in only 1 God). But the thing about the Zoroastrians is they didn't want to pollute the Earth with the dead, nor did they want to corrupt fire. So, the only logical alternative was to leave the rotting corpse to the elements and wildlife in specially constructed Towers of Silence (still a cool name).

The tower in Aden lies in complete disrepair. The few remaining followers left southern Yemen in 1967 after the end of British rule. Better resembling mere crumbling homes as opposed to once hallowed grounds, the temple in not actually the main attraction. As real estate agents often say, it's all about location, location, location!! The views from the nearby "make out" point (not the real name), are arguably the best in the city. Expansive 360-degree views range from the mountains to the sea and over the entire crater. AWESOME!!!

Getting to the Tower is fairly easy. At the edge of the crater

are the Tawila Cisterns (an attraction in themselves). From there, follow the wall that leads of to the left. At the end of the wall, take the first right. Go past the mosque where a dirt road lead up the hill to the left. It's about a 20-minute walk uphill, on a very sun-exposed road wannabe. Stair zig-zag through a makeshift shanty-town, eventually leading to the tower site. It is complete free (no one would charge for it). If you do somehow manage to get lost, just say "Parsee" (another word for Zoroastrian) and point in an upward direction. Locals are sure to help. This is Yemen after all.

Gettin' Tanked in Aden

There are some historical sites around the world that will inspire you. There are times you will be awed by the astounding magnitude or intricacy of ancient structures. There are places you visit that may even deliver you to such a state of shock that you will be moved to tears. In the southern Yemeni city of Aden, the Cisterns of Tawila will do none of these. But considering that the tanks date back as far as 2,000 years. They are tremendous architectural feat in the advancement of mankind.

The Aden Tanks (as the are usually referred to) are a bit of a mystery.

Little is actually known of their origins. The first documented siting of the tanks dates back to the 7th century. But considering they were in full swing by then would suggest that they were quite a bit older. The original 53 tanks (only 13 are visible now) served a dual purpose. Their primary use was that of a complex water storage system. Aden province sees very little rain, so the tanks were vital in supporting the growth of Aden city. As an added bonus the tanks were excellent flood control. Flash flood are not uncommon in the event of rain, so having a bit of disaster prevention was also useful. However, subsequent dynasties left the cisterns to rot. And between 1,300s and the 1,800s they fell into disrepair. The colonial British gave a shot at restoring them, but found them of little use. The tanks have remain untouched (except for cleaning the park) since 1967.

The area of Tawila (for which the tanks are named) is easy walking distance from the centre of Aden known as the Crater. A brown sign in one of the squares (just south of the Aden Gulf Hotel) points the way. The entrance is obvious was you reach the end of the road a few hundred metres from the square. Entrance is 100 YER leaving little excuse not to visit. Opening hours are from around 8 to around 6 (depending on prayer times). They will close for a few hours in the midday of Fridays. There are no buses that come here, but taxis are super cheap.

Although not the most exciting site in Yemen, the Aden Tanks are an excellent demonstration of human ingenuity in the face of necessity. But the location is lovely, hemmed into towering cliff faces. Try to visit during prayer time as the echoing call-to-prayer adds an air of truly exotic travel.

Salalah, blah blah blah

Sometimes travelling in the off-season sucks. While visiting a place out of peak season can assure discounts and hotel beds, there is more often than not a reason why tourists don't go to that particular place at that time of year. There are times it doesn't matter. I rather enjoyed Iceland in the winter. But there are times when it makes or breaks the experience. The city of Salalah, in southern Oman, most certainly has a peak season. The Khareef (monsoon season) sees the city overflow with tourists from June to September. Extra flights and bus services are added to accommodate the influx of visitor looking for waterfalls, green pastures and misty seaside roads. But i wasn't there in July or August.

The city of Salalah is... well... a city. Oman's second largest

city to be more specific. And while the thriving port and ancient frankincense trade have supported the city for the better part of two centuries the city itself is remarkable for it's unspectacularness. The town is super isolated. It's essentially grenade tossing distance to the often volatile Yemeni border to the west. And to the east lies nothing. I mean absolutely nothing. A 10 hour mind numbing drive through some of the most unexceptional landscape on Earth. it is not "Hollywood desert" with towering dunes and camel caravans, but instead a gravel sandpit where tiny rocks go to die. Sure the Khareef in Salalah offers a unique opportunity to see the desert spring to life. But outside that short season, Salalah is really nothing more than a sleepy dustbowl with little to entertain the average visitor.

But you have to play to your strengths. Being a coastal town,

Salalah has an extensive beach. And despite the industrial nature of the port area, the beach is shockingly clean and garbage free. The soft white sands stretch past the horizon with nothing but seagulls and crabs to impede your infinite strolling. The lack of pedestrian traffic is also a bit of a curse as there are few seaside cafes other than those at the overpriced hotels. Along the beach, you will undoubtablycome across Sultan Qaboos Palace. Although mostly close to the public (i guess the Sultan likes his privacy) there are a few random glimpses into the royalty from the beach or street. Near the palace the al-Husn Souq (old market) is promoted as a great place to pick up souvenirs. However, this is nothing like a traditional souq, it is merely a collection of street side shops. Sadly, the new souq area is no better. Not only is it just a bunch of store, but construction of a new high volume avenue will surely mean it will be a noisy, pointless experience.

However, where the city does shine is in the fantabulous fish and

meat souq next to the "new souq". Although newly constructed, this is one of the most lively markets in the country and a fantastic place for people watching. Locals in all fashions of traditional dress haggle over the price of the daily catch as they have since the dawn of man. "Oh, but this was my prize-winning, female, racing sheep!" Or some other sales techniques are attempted followed by a flurry of hand gestures, walking away, arm grabbing, laughing and finally purchasing. There are several simple cafes set up around the area giving front row centre seats for one of my favourite types of shows on Earth. Although best visited in the mornings, the action continues on pretty late into the day. This market is easily the highlight of the city. And most certainly one of my favourites i came across in the country.

Other than that, the city doesn't really have too much to offer. While there are a few "attractions" in the surrounding area, they are no accessible by public transport. Meaning either overpriced tours or self driving.

If trying to kill some time, the ruins of al-Baleed are within

the city limits. A rather extensive site (formerly known as Dhofar), al-Baleed was the first real fishing port in the region. Although some settlements have been dated to 400 BC, the current site most likely hit it's hey-day around the 10th century. A ridiculous 2 OR entrance fee (4 times what most sites cost) will give you access to the ground and the newly constructed museum. The seaside location is nice, and the museum is well displayed. The only way here is taxi which should go for around 500-700 Baisa from the centre.

Salalah international airport is small but functional with flights to the capital, Muscat, as well as other Gulf destinations. There are even flights to Yemen. Marathon bus journeys are offered by a number of companies (all around the new souq). Destinations include Muscat and Dubai with all going through Nizwa. Hotels in Salalah are also some of the best value in the country (at least in the off season). Although still costing 15 OM+, they area considerably nicer than those in either Nizwa or Sur.

I'm sure that the Khareef in Salalah offers a wonderful chance to watch the seemingly barren desert landscape spring to life. But outside this brief window of rejuvenation, Salalah is just some port city in the middle of nowhere. While it offers a different perspective on the country from the cities in the north, for those on a time crunched visit, I'm not sure it's worth the trip.

Rebirth of Nizwa

When one thinks of major monuments, places like the Pyramids or the Taj Mahal or Machu Picchu might pop into mind. Oman has none of these. As a matter of fact, 4 of Oman's 5 UNESCO heritage listed sites (including a delisted one) include a park, a trading route, a watering system and an archeological site. The other being the counties only real "monument". So in a region devoid of famous buildings, the town of Nizwa (2 hours west of the capital Muscat) has stepped in to fill the gap.

Nizwa really rose to power around the 6th and 7th centuries about the time Islam came to Oman. Due to the influx of commerce into the region,

numerous mosque and universities established themselves in the town. Nizwa beacame a major centre of trade, art, religion and studies. It was even the capital of Oman at that time. Considerably more conservative than most other cities in the region, Nizwa became somewhat closed off. Eventually building a massive, rotund fortress tower in the 17th century to vehemently defend it's territory and it's ideals. As life ticked on for a couple hundred years, around the 1950s, the then Sultan Said bin Taymour considered the city and it's people as an obstacle and possible threat to his plans ordering the British Royal Air Force to bomb the city, and the fort tower. But in the 1970s, the new Sultan Qaboos realized the importance of the historical town, and has been on a mission to breathe life back into the city. A new highway was built to Muscat. Hospitals were constructed. The old town rebuilt. The result? Nizwa is now the second most visited city in the country.

Without question, the town's principal attraction is the city's fort

and souq (market) complex. Entering through any of the "old towns'" gates is like a step back through time (although completely renovated) While the market area is free to stroll around, the rather portly fort tower will cost 500 Baisa to enter. But the fee is worth it. There are some decent displays disperse in the labyrinth or rooms and underground passageways. But it is the views over the town that are the real highlight. Spiralling upwards through the towers belly, trap doors and murder holes are highlighted. Once at the top, a few more stair lead off in all direction giving wonderful views over the town, palm plantations and mountains. The fort closes fairly early (4 pm on most days). While the midday sun might make wandering around tough, be sure not to leave it until too late.

The souk area is relatively expansive, with a number of areas

to explore. Fruit markets, fish markets, silver market, pottery market and a number of other crafts of expertise are up for offer. Of particular interest is the fruit and meat markets. Although the new buildings are rather unattractive, complete with florescent lights, it is great for people watching. While locals don't need postcards or plastic knives, everyone's got to eat. In general, vendors are not pushy.

A quality usually associated with tourist markets. It's an easy place to stroll around,taking pictures or leisurely shop. But if the new and remodelled isn't your cup of tea, in the alleyways beyond the markets are the remnants of the old city. This is the residential area, still inhabited today. The traditional buildings lie in various states of breakdown. Many of the mud and clay constructions have been left to decay, returning to the Earth which once gave them life. The alleys are peaceful with nothing more than the occasional "hello" to break the silence. This is the old town that seems to be lacking in most other cities in the country.

There are a few other points of interest in the area. The al-Hoota cave is rumoured to be popular, but as with many other out-of-town attraction in Oman, the caves are only accessible by car or tour. One of Oman's UNESCO Heritage listed sites can be seen here, the Aflaj water transport system.

Getting to the city is super easy as darn near every bus going

in any direction eventually passes through Nizwa. Whether south from the UAE or north from Salalah (not to mention direct from Muscat) you won't be waiting long. The state run, Oman National Transport co. has a couple services a day for 1.9 OM. Nizwa has an airport, but it is not international. The biggest issue in the city is accommodation. Even with a growing tourism industry, there aren't many hotels. The only ones i managed to see were on the Muscat-Nizwa highway some 5+ KMs out of the city centre. There are minibuses that do the route (200 Baisa) but they can be sparse at times. The hotels were among the worst value i stayed in the country with a cheap room going for 16 OR.

Nizwa has the history that seems to be lacking in much of the country. While there are forts everywhere, few can compare to the size of the one in Nizwa. I quite liked the town. And would easily recommend it.

Sur's up

If asked, i'm sure many people would say the ideal holiday destination should involve "sun, sand and surf". With over 2,000 km of coastline, Oman has a lot of all three. 150 km South-East of the capital, Muscat, the seaside town of Sur has been a gateway to the Gulf of Oman for centuries. After being aplayer in trade over the millennia, Sur these days just seems a little rundown.

While never a major historical figure, Sur was a decent port of call

on the trade route from India. But it seems the cards were stacked against the tiny seaside community. Once the British took over in India, with their fancy-pants steamers, the little Omani Dhows (sail boats) simply couldn't compete. And with the opening of the Suez canal as a more direct route to Europe, trade in the area all but shut down. There are remnants of Surs' financial past. Like most other places in the area, forts and towers adorn nearly every hill top and outcropping. And the government initiative of restoring some of these old watch posts has done a good job at restoring the past. However, the Sur experience, at least in terms of architecture and monuments, is a bit of a let down.

Nowadays, Sur is on the upswing. A surge in the local economy has

been fuelled by fertilizer and liquid gas, literally. This is abundantly clear in the New Souq (market area). Shops are popping up all over as construction seems 24/7. Modern day traders haggle over prices in the traditions of old. BUT.... this new market shows no physical resemblance to what one might picture as a traditional Middle Eastern market. This is not a place of winding back alleyways and hidden little stalls where craftsmen toil over generation old practices. Instead, this is a place where you buy the latest model mobile phone or send remittences to India. Camel caravans have been replaced by playboy wannabes cranking their thump-thump music out of pseudo-hotrods. The market is ordinary, unattractive and loud.

But all is not lost. Tucked away on the the southern edge of the town,

where the sea meets the lagoon sits Surs' cultural heart. The long standing tradition of ship building is still alive and well. High quality Dhows (small sailing ship) have been fashioned here for ages. And while the dhow yards bear more resemblance to a ship graveyard, the ancient observance of shipbuilding lives on. Although the labourers speak little to no English, they are quite willing to show the tricks of the trade as you pay your last respects to the rotting corpses of the water-crafts of yesteryear.

The picturesque village of Ayjah sits just across the lagoon from Sur.

Although similar in appearance to Sur itself (low-lying white washed houses) the town has a completely different feel. The newly restored lighthouse gives strollers a destination. Although closed, it is a relaxed place to chill on the benches looking over the sea and lagoon to Sur. There is no market (although there is a fort), no remittence shops, just peace and tranquility. Profoundly quieter and more laid-back than it's larger cousin, the rumble of passing cars is replaced by the giddy "hellos" of tiny voices hidden behind doorways and curtained windows. Goats roam the streets in no hurry to go anywhere. And you are unlikely to see another tourist around. Geographically, it's just across the water (complete with new bridge) but it might as well be a million miles away.

Sur, instead, can act like a base for region exploration.

Expensive tours (starting at 25 OR for city tours) stretch afield to places like the turtle beach at Ras al-Jinz, and to several beautiful Wadis (river canyons) including Wadi Shab and Wadi Tiwi. But like all other out-of-the-way places in Oman, the wadis and turtle beach are inaccessible by public transport. This means you either need to rent a car (from 12 OM/day) or join the tour. The tour prices are based per car with a 4 person maximum. If in a group, they are quite well priced. But as an individual traveller they are simply too expensive.

Sur, itself, is easily accessible by bus. The state run Oman National Transport Co. has 3 services a day. 2 of which take the 4+ hour inland route (4 OM) and a new one that takes the 2+ hour seaside causeway (3 OR) The new service leaves Sur New Souq at 7am and returns from Muscat Ruwi terminal at 3pm. Toll booths were set up, but don't seem to be functioning yet for those with their own car.

I can't say I was a huge fan of Sur. But the town is not without it's charms. It can be tough to get over the inevitable first impression one gets from arrival into the new souq, but if willing to delve a little deeper, their are a few gems to be discovered.

Man, Oman!

The words “Middle East” have almost taken on a notion of profanity in the west. The mere mention of any number of countries in the region are sure to conjure up images of US flag burning, suicide bombers and terrorism masterminds. But those propaganda machine couldn't be any further from the truth. Still, for most, the though of travelling to the region will give the uninitiated a feeling of deep angst. But it need not be. For anyone needing to dip a toe into the Middle Eastern shallow end, Oman makes an decent choice. More secure than Yemen, more traditional than the Emirates and just better than Kuwait, Oman is kiddie pool of the Arab world. And there's no better place to start than it's capital, Muscat.

Muscat's history is as old as history itself. Evidence has placed humansettlement in the area back nearly 5,000 years, although it

didn't really come to prominence until about 2,000 years ago. Throughout the years it seems everyone took a stab at ruling the region. Turks, Persians and even the Portuguese took turns conquering, ruling, being conquered and such up until the mid 1600s. From there infighting amongst the locals continued until 1970 when Qaboos Bin Said staged a coup against his dad to become Sultan, naming the country the Sultanate of Oman. Since that time, Oman has developed quickly. Shocking advances in education, health care and basic infrastructures has taken place under the much-loved Sultan Qaboos. Being a trade reliant nation on the rise, is reflected visably in the demographics of the country. Nearly 40% of Muscat residents are expatriates (largely from South Asia).

But with so much vision for the future and major international influence, Muscat (and Oman in general) struggles with a traditional sense of self. Fiscal advancement of the country is abundantly clear in the capital. Crowded highways and round about create a tangled web throughout the massive sprawl of the city. Muscat itself is actually tiny, but due to the traditional low-lying housing, the greater Muscat metropolitan stretches some 60+ kms across. Comprised of some half dozen districts and wilayats, trying to navigate the city can be confusing. Luckily, there are only really a couple areas of interest for tourist.

More often than not, the port area of a seaside city is usually the more

undesirable part of town. But the area of Muttrah, home to Port Mina Qaboos, is arguably the biggest attraction in the city. As the city really lacks any single site of interest, it is the seaside cornish, full of cafes and markets, that tourists come to see. Bookended by the lively fish market and the Muttrah Fort (one of many in the city) strolling along the shoreline walkway, stopping for tea and shopping is about the best the city has up for offer. The tourist oriented Muttrah Souk was built in an old style. The narrow pedestrian hallways are lined by shop hawking everything from ubiquitous frankincense to cheap Chinese toys. The fish market is great for people watching, especially early in the morning. But the whole area requires not more than a hour to thoroughly explore, twice over.

The only other area of interest for travellers would be old Muscat

itself. Sadly the old city bares no indications to the multi-millennia of history the region has witnessed. Wide streets and newer buildings, however, are interrupted by a few points of interest. Upon entering Old Muscat, the City Gate Museum is the first thing to come across. While the view are ok, the museum itself is of little interest. It's almost impossible to miss the massive Sultan's Palace. And the public can get surprisingly close. Nearby, the Omani-French museum highlights the relations between the two countries. The picturesque Mirani Fort sits next to the palace on the seaside. Sadly, it's closed to the public as are most of the forts and towers in the area. Again, Old Muscat doesn't require anymore than an hour.

Frankly, i wasn't a fan of Muscat. You need a car/taxi to get anywhere. The forts and such are cute, but there are far better ones throughout the country. Food was in the form of shwarma and hamburgers. And the famous Omani hospitality is hard to come by when the majority of interactions will be with non-Omanis. Not to mention it's all super expensive. But all that said, i can still recommend the place to travellers hoping to break into Middle Eastern tourism. Safety, security, a high level of English and a tolerance for tourists make Muscatman easy place start journeys into one of the most travel-rewarding regions on Earth.