Pretty in Peja

One might think that being set at the base of the Accursed Mountains might be... well... a curse. And if you used a period about 10 years ago as a point of reference, that might be true. The tiny town of Peja (PAY-ya) in western Kosovo has had it's dark days. Bombed heavily by both NATO and Serb forces, the village was all but wiped off the map. But even the deepest of scars can be healed.

Straddling the Bistrica River, which pours out of a beautiful mountain

gorge, the town of Peja certainly has it's setting going for it. The place has long been a source of inspiration (as far back as the ancient Greeks). As a matter of fact, Peja is so sacred it spawned the country's #1 beer, the aptly named Peja beer. And from the ashes and rubble of war, eateries have sprung. The downtown core has pretty much been completely re-built, remodelled and modernized. It is now the place to see and be seen. Cafes, restaurants and fast food joints line the pedestrian plaza. Youth, surprisingly skilled in the art of attraction, snazzy themselves up as they strut up and down the 150 meter cobbled stretch of territory. The good news is things are still cheap as chips. A plate of freshly smoked meat, salad, fresh bread and a Peja beer (of course) go for a few Euros. And city-dwellers make their way up from Pristina for the weekend to prop themselves at a cafe and chill.

Wandering the sidestreets, you may wonder where all the history has

gone. Everything seems new. But even amongst the modernity, Peja still retains a very laid-back "village" atmosphere. Horses and tractors are a common sight fighting for parking spaces with shiny new Mercedes and BMWs. While the new buildings have all but erased the scars of war, there are still signs. A few amputees and homeless beg on the streets. Although it isn't nearly as bad as other post-war regions i've visited. One of the stranger indications is the male-female ration, as there are girls a-plenty in a shallow pool of testosterone.

For those hoping for something more on the old side, the UNESCO listed Patriarchate of Pec Monastery awaits on the outskirts of town. The entire

complex is a wonderfully, magnificent serene location. The still active homes of the holy have a beautifully manicured garden surrounding the main church, all magically placed in the cradle of forested mountains. While there has been restoration, the frescoes in the church are mainly untouched. The whole place transports you back to the Middle Ages when the area was of vital importance to Medieval Serbs. But, the walled complex did not go overlooked by the EU/UN troops keeping peace in the new country. A base was set up on the grounds, and as such, visiting involves a bit of a song and dance. Visiting hours are between 11-5, and you MUST bring your passport. The occupying troops (Slovenian when i visited) must get clearance for you to visit. And due to the military sensitivities, photos are strictly forbidden (my shot here is from the internet). A taxi from the town centre should cost more than 3 Euros for there-wait-and back.

There are hiking and caving opportunities also available in the area, which i didn't look into. Peja is well connected with the rest of the country with a seemingly constant flow of buses to Pristina, Prizren and to places unknown. All for 3-4 Euros, depending on destination.

Overall, Peja makes for a great escape from the hustle and bustle of the big city, Pristina. Life is simple, the air is fresh and the beer is free-flowing. Truth be told, the town will never be a major tourist draw. But that's part of the charm. I was the only non-regional, non-miltary guy in town. And that's not a sensation that is easy to come by in Europe anymore. Peja is definitely worth a visit if in the area.

Back in the 'Bul

It could be worse. My issue with premature evacuation from Yemen has left me in some sort of lost-in-space holding pattern. My harebrained, cockamamie ideas which could be misconstrued as "plans" were sort of all throw out the window when the phone call came to get on the plane and leave. While i always knew it was a possibility, i never really expected it to happen. So with a free ticket to pretty much anywhere paid for by Mrs. Hillary Clinton, i opted to be exiled in Istanbul.

I have always liked Istanbul. After all, i lived here nearly 7 years

ago. My previous stay being permanently etched into the annals of Turkish television with my production of the show "English 4 You". Sadly, i was not asked for an autograph at immigration. It seems nobody has heard of the show. But not even my lack of fame was going to dampen my visit. People always ask me "What's your favourite country?". Frankly, it's an impossible question to answer. But if they're looking for holiday ideas, i always suggest Turkey, and it's crown jewel Istanbul. Full of towering historical monuments like the Aya Sofia and the Blue Mosque, shops a plenty at the Grand Bazar and local life galore on the semi-pedestrian Istiklal Street, the city really does have something for everyone. A blend of the exotic (or at least different from home) and the familiar, Istanbul is an easy place to visit for even the most novice traveller.

But what this ease of travel translates into is one of the most popular

tourist destinations in the region. Clearly the city could never be kept a secret. And i'm not sure it ever was. After all, it has been the crossroads of trade and travel from Europe to Asia long before my failed attempt at pop-culture status. But i arrive in the shoulder season, when it pretty much rains everyday. Even then, i had to change hotels 3 times due to previous bookings. While a city of 10,000,000+ certainly has it's non-touristic areas, Sultanahmet is not one of them. Having spent the last few years living and working in remote areas, it was a shock to see soooooo many foreigners in one place.

On more of a personal note, coming back to Istanbul feels a bit like i'm going backwards. Easy travel where everyone speaks English and where i could be mistaken for a local if you were a near-sited drunk who had forgot your glasses. But above that, i've become used to working in developing countries, feeling like you're making some sort of difference. I'm now working for upper middle class people who consider education a hobby to fill the time as opposed to a gifted opportunity to be relished. It's just not as fulfilling this time around.

There is little question i will continue to recommend Istanbul as one of the best destinations in the world. But it would seem i have outgrown it.