Preikestolen & Kjerag

France has the Eiffel Tower. Egypt has the Pyramids. China has the Great Wall. While these countries are in no way limited to these individual iconic symbols, they have somehow come to be represented by them. Norway doesn't have such a emblem. For a country renowned for its nature, it's difficult to pinpoint a single image to capture the essence of the place. So instead, it has two. Both being rocks at the end of easy access hiking. Preikestolen (Pulpit's Rock) and Kjeragbolten (the floating boulder) are as iconic as it gets in Norway.One good thing about ice ages is as they ended, the glacial scarring left on the face of the Earth is more often than not absolutely spectacular. The fjords of Norway are certainly no exception. In the south-west of the country, near the town of Stavanger, begins one of the country's most beautiful fjords. The 42km long Lysefjord is nothing short of breath-taking. Boat trips make the journey to Lysebotn at the end. The whole time the towering granite cliff sides caress the waters edge. You feel simultaneously belittled and freed at the same time.

But to truly get perspective on nature's glory, you need to see it from

above. There is perhaps no place better than Preikestolen (Pulpit's Rock). A 45-minute ferry connecting to a 30 minute bus brings you right to the base of the hike. If you only make it this far, it might be good enough. A hostel is set up on the edge of a beautiful lake. But it is the 2-hour hike (each way) people come here for. Although not particularly steep, the river stone walkway can make the trail difficult to find your stride. Based on the people who made it to the top, i'd say the hike would be an adventurous, though easy hike. As you approach the top, the trail splits to the Hill Route and the Cliff Route (the cliff is easier). Finally, you emerge onto a large monolith dangling precariously over the fjord, 600m below. It is not for the faint of heart. And have no illusions that you will be the only one up there. As the most popular hike in the country, it can be quite busy.

To get to Preikestolen is very easy. There is a boat/bus combination out of Stavanger from the main ferry company, Tide. You need a ferry to Tau, then a bus to the base of the hike. Ferries run every 30 minutes, but only ferries at 8:00am, 9:30am, 11:00am (and so on 1.5 hourly) meet up with the bus. It costs 200 NOK for the return ferry/bus trip. You could book ahead or just buy on the ferry.

But this fjord is no 1-hike-wonder. At the end of the fjord, starting well

above the village of Lysebotn, is a far more challenging hike. Kjerag is a completely different type of trek with a similar reward at the end. In comparison to Preikestolen's fairly flat, river stone pathway under a forest canopy, Kjerag is a fully exposed, 60+ degree pitch slog over bare mountain granite. Chains have been bolted along some of the steeper sections as the assistance is very much needed for some near vertical ascents. To further complicate matters, the top of Kjerag is several hundred meters highly than Preikestolen meaning that very foul weather is not only possible, but highly likely. My CouchSurfing host told me that of all the CSers he's had, only 1 had nice weather climbing Kjerag. Not great odds. Being a more technical hike means it's also longer, 5 hours for the round trip. At the end awaits a 5m3 boulder wedged between the cliff sides,

suspended nearly 1,000 meter above the fjord below. There might be no other more famous image then tourist braving the rock. It is absolutely certain death if you fall. But here's the real kicker. The only public transport to the sight is the same company, Tide, as the Preikestolen hike. There is only 1 service a day (490 NOK) leaving Stavanger at around 8am. The ride is 2.5 hours, meaning by the time the 4:45pm return service leaves Kjerag, you might only get 6 hours in order to do the hike. It's a real rush. I was shocked at just how unprepared some people were. I saw idiots trying the hike in shorts and sandals (they quickly turned back) It is posted everywhere, but good footwear, a rain jacket, food and water are absolutely essential. There is a cafe at the base of the hike with expectedly high prices.

I can assume what the number 1 question will be, "Which is better?". Well, it a matter of opinion. But here are the facts, Preikestolen is much easier, cheaper and less nerve racking. Kjerag is more technically challenging and less touristy (not that many make it to the top). I'm glad i got to do both as i would not want to choose between 2 great, iconic Norwegian hikes.

Stridin' into Stavanger

Let's say you're visiting a country renowned for it's spectacular nature.Then someone suggests visiting one of the larger cities with a super busy port, commonly referred to as the petroleum capital. The knee-jerk response would likely be “Thanks, but no thanks”. After all, why subject yourself to the less than breath-taking spoils of industrial wastelands and urban sprawl one might associate with a place of that description? But Stavanger in southern Norway is not a book to be judged by some NY Times review. Instead, Stavanger is a cute little quaint town with typical colourful houses and cobble-stone streets. Not to mention being the gateway to some of the most accessible and popular hikes in the country.Few visitors to Stavanger are likely to wander far from the cruise ship

port. And frankly, there is little reason to. Everything is within walking distance. It's all easy. Haphazardly filling in the space between the tourist port and ferry terminals, Old (Gamle) Stavanger is the main draw of the town. The jumbled, semi-pedestrian streets weave and bob through nearly 200 18^th century houses highlighted with flower boxes, blinding pastels and more trolls than you can shake a stick at (FYI, never shake a stick at a troll. Trust me) With a plethora of shops, cafes and about a dozen 7-11s,

you don't need to worry about having to eat your own arm should you get lost in the labyrinth of side streets. Maps are pointless, and likely impede any 'exploration and discovery'. The place especially comes alive on the rare sunny day as locals and tourists alike populate the outdoors cafes with laughing and drinking (not necessarily in that order). Although hardly the most impressive old town in the world, it makes for an enjoyable couple hours of strolling.

But let's be honest. The sad fact about cute or quaint or little towns is you will struggle to fill a couple days. True, you could check out yet another church or one of the 23 museums in town, like the Norwegian Petroleum Museum. But they are hardly major highlights to any visit to the region. Instead, Stavanger gives easy access to the Lysefjord, one of the countries most beautiful Fjords. And if boat trips aren't your thing, you can sweat yourself up Preikestolen (Pulpit Rock) or Kjerag hikes for some of the most awe-inspiring view points in the world.Stavanger in and of itself may not be the #1 site in the country. That said, the town is most definitely worth detouring to see. But if figuring in the proximity to the big hikes, this bumps up the towns status to an absolute must-see.

Home, Stockholm

Quite often, one of the major contributing factors when choosing a holiday destination is to go someplace different. An escape to a place which offers us a brief hiatus from our daily routines. That's exactly what i was looking for when i found myself with some time off from my job in Iraq. I needed something so fundamentally polar opposite. But i also needed a country where i didn't need a visa (hardly any embassies in Northern Iraq) and a destination with direct, economical flights to Iraq (there's only a handful). Luckily one place fit all these criteria. So i dusted off my backpack and headed to Sweden.

Arriving in Stockholm was a bit of a culture shock to me. People took numbers when standing in line, lots of smiles with “please” and “thank-you”, not to mention a lackadaisical approach to security. So once i synced with the flow of life, i let my hand-dandy tourist map lead me to the city's sights.

Stockholm began on a little island, still the location of the city's old

town. It's also the same place the majority of tourist congregate. In a “go-with-the-flow” frame of mind, i ended up on Gamla Stan. The ankle-cracking cobble-stone street meander through a myriad of pastel edifices. This is a time to disregard any maps or planned destinations and just wander the narrow alleyways. It won't be long before you emerge into a square guaranteed to be teeming with life as locals and tourist alike sipping coffee or imbibing a local pint. Buskers line the streets and square putting the whole experience to it's own soundtrack. And while some might be turned off by the overtly touristic feel of the main thoroughfare, Vasterlanggaten, it's not hard to steal away from the crowds to your own side street. It is perhaps true that Gamla Stan is not the most spectacular old town in the world, Gamla Stan is a pretty cool place.

Being a historical city, Stockholm's museums proudly display the capital's heritage. The good news is there certainly are a lot of museums, one better than the last. The bad news is, most are no longer free. Charging anywhere from 30 to 100 SEK it can be an expensive endeavour to try to soak in a bit of culture. The good news is a tourist card is available for sale, not only giving free entry to the majority of museums, but also free access to public transport. There are still a couple free activities to partake in, like the tour of the Parliament (in English at 1, 2 and 3 pm) or the hallowed halls of a church or two.

But outside the magnetism of the tourism hub, Stockholm is a city of

lifestyle. Bike paths fill with commuters looking for a green alternative. Joggers abound around the seaside paths. Outdoor cafes take advantage of the short summer season. Impromptu picnic, BBQs and drinking sessions pop up at random look outs and scenic spots. Clean, green and health conscience, Stockholmites realize there's more to life then quickly getting to and from the 9-to-5. Instead, life is to be enjoyed. The place is so laid back, everyone greets each other with a simple, "Hey". Stockholm is fundamental Scandinavian.Perhaps i've been away from Europe too long, living in war zones or countries that end with “Stan”, but Stockholm was exactly what i needed exactly when i needed it. The combination of history, climate and lifestyle instantaneously refreshed me. After only a few short days, i was recharged and ready to head back to Iraq. I guess that's the whole purpose of going on a holiday.