Norwegian Trainin'

It is rare to find a great travel compromise. If you want great weather, you have to deal with crowds. If you want discounts, you have to travel off-season. If you travel on a budget, you have to sacrifice comfort. But Norway has one of these elusive compromises. You can see incredible nature, in comfort, at bargain prices. All you need to do is hop on a train.

Norwegian State Railways, or NSB, is a great way to see the country.

Trains are generally on time. They offer internet (although it's a little spotty at times). There is a dining car. They have a comfort class for the those who want a little pampering (free coffee and newspaper). There's even a sleeper train for longer hauls, like Trondheim to Bodo, with cabins (or pullman seats for the financially challenged). But beyond relative comfort, the trains are a blessing for their prices. Norway is far from being a cheap travel destination and transport makes up a major part of any budget. NSB has a solution.

If you are able to pay in advance, NSB offers significantly discounted

prices called Minipris. These budget fares start at 199 NOK (US$37) irregardless of the distance traveled. $37 might still seem expensive for a train ticket, but when considering the alternatives, it's a steal. For example, the nearly 10 hour journey from Trondheim to Bodo should cost 982 NOK (US$183) at full fare. But getting the Minipris automatically saves nearly $150. Couple this with the fact it's an overnight train and you also save a night's accommodation. With a dorm bed in a hostel costing around 250 NOK (US$50), this makes an overall savings of around $200! On a single trip!!!!!!!!!

While saving money and travelling in comfort would normally be enough,

in Norway you get a trifecta by throwing in some beautiful scenery. Regular routes, like Bergen to Oslo, are often touted as one of the most beautiful train trips in the world. Yes, it's nice (particularly at the Bergen end) but "most beautiful" might be an exaggeration. There are also a couple "tourist" trains, the most popular being The Flam Railway, often included in larger tours, like Norway in a Nutshell. While i took the Bergen-Oslo train, i wasn't interested in the over touristed Flam train. I, instead, opted for different one.

The Raumabanen, or Rauma Railway, is a very pretty trip. Shuttling between the beautiful port of Andalsnes and Dombas, the train ride is lovely. I could throw out statistics like, 114km or opened in 1924 but what's the point. This trip is not about history or geometry, it's about nature.

Andalsnes is beautiful. While the town itself is just a village, the

natural Fjord setting is memorable. Although skipped by the Norwegian Hurtigruten, plenty of other cruise ships make this tiny port a short stop. There are some excellent hiking opportunities from the village, as with most places in Norway. But Andalsnes isn't necessarily worth sticking around for too long. Buses meet up with the train to take people to the even more beautiful Alesund. But i said it once, i'll say it again, this train trip is not about the villages, but it is about the nature.

Now let's be fair, this is not the Qinghai-Tibet railway in China or the

Rocky Mountaineer in Canada. But it is a very beautiful trip. It is clearly geared towards tourists. There is a commentary in multiple languages and you get a free brochure as the trip starts. The special cars have extra large windows for your viewing pleasure and bathrooms for when you feel you need to wet yourself. Passing such landmarks as the Troll Peaks, Kylling Bridge and villages like Bjorli you are never far from a photo op. And the good news is, as a tourist train, it stops to get clear pictures (through glass that is).

The moral of the story is, if you want comfort travel at budget prices while taking in the beautiful scenery of Norway, one needs to look no further than the train.

Transittin' Trondheim

My heart often goes a-pitter-patter when i hear things like "old capital". Almaty is cooler than Astana in Kazakhstan and Istanbul beats the pants off Ankara in Turkey. Formerly known as Nidaros, the city of Trondheim, Norway, does not exactly follow this pattern. To be fair, the capital was moved to Bergen (and later Oslo) nearly 1,000 years ago. Although the city lacks any of it's former capital luster, it's has a new, young life.

Built on the TrondheimFjord and sitting on the Nidelva river, the peaceful

waters surrounding Trondheim reflect it's nature, kind of. On the surface, Trondheim is just a typical lazy town. Semi-pedestrianized streets lined with boutique shops peeking out through trees is about a million miles away from the hustle and bustle of the big city. It is exactly what you'd expect out of a town with a population around 180,000. Fully functional with most of the amenities you'd need for daily life, is hardly a headline for any tourist brochure. A vibrant student population does breath some life into the town though. There is a bountiful plethora of cafes, bars and clubs for those so inclined. And, as is common for Scandinavian cities, parks and green areas abound with joggers, cyclists and loungers adhering to the "quality of life" mentality famous in the region. And while this makes for good living, it's hardly good tourist-ing.

The good news is the city is not without it's touristy-type highlights.

Like many Norwegian towns, Trondheim has it's own little old town. Across Gamle Bybro, the streets become largely devoid of traffic. Paved roads turn into cobble-stone street and the speed limit is set at "mosey". Many on the colourful river-side warehouse have been turned into shops and restaurants becoming one of the better (though expensive) places in town to grab a bite. A little further down the river the old Nidaros Cathedral and Archbishop's palace is a guaranteed stop on any Trondheim tour. Although, to be frank, a church is a church. And i've never been a fan of religious buildings that charge admission.

There are a couple other points of interest. A few museums are scattered about town ranging in themes from maritime to art to history to music. And for a decent view over town, Kristiansten Fort is easy to reach. But being there on a foggy, rainy day, i couldn't be bothered.

Trondheim ain't half bad. Be it's hardly a destination unto itself. It is an often used gateway to the arctic and a long stopover on the Hurtigruten cruise. And while it may not be worth coming all this way just for the town itself, if in the area, Trondheim is worth a day or two of your travel time.

Bustlin' Bergen

All i can say is book early. Norway maynot be a world leader in terms of tourism numbers, but you can bet that darn near all of the 5.4 million tourists to the area will stop in one of 2 places. The capital, Oslo and the coastal city of Bergen. While Oslo can handle those sort of number, Bergen is a different story.

With a population of just under 300,000, Bergen may well be Norway's second largest city, but it by no means a metropolis. And the place does retain a small

town feel. That is as long as you don't visit in summer. Tourism in the coastal town has exploded in the last decade or so, due largely to cruise visits. The number of boats visiting have more than doubled in the last 20 years. With passenger numbers sextupling. That means nearly 300,000 visitors arrive by boat alone every year. If figuring in land and air arrivals, Bergen's population is dwarfed by the nearly 1.5 million invading sightseers. These numbers might not mean anything to the average traveller until you try to find a place to stay. As i arrived in town, late in August, i passed the Tourist Information office with an ominous sign on the door, "No beds in Bergen Centre tonight"! I count my lucky stars i already had a CouchSurfing place set-up.

Bergen is sort of a perfect storm of tourism. Beautifully set along a thin strip

where forested hills fall into the ocean, the natural setting is a pretty one. Bergen is also a great staging point for exploration into the Fjords. Norway in a Nutshell being a very popular tour. When you couple this with the UNESCO listed Bryggen (the old wharf of Bergen) it is no surprise people flock here. The 300 year old, Old Wharf area is a pleasure to stroll around, although a little touristy for my liking. The best part is, if you carry on for one or two streets in any given direction, you can most definitely leave the hordes behind. The side streets of town are lovely and having them to yourself enhances the experience. Sure, it may not be the same as the Disney-fied wooden boardwalks and narrow alleyways of the wharf area itself, but the charming pastels and little ornate trimming are pretty in themselves.

The city is no one-hit-wonder. There are a number of museums worth

checking out, including the Hanseatic museum. The Torget, waterfront fish market, is always overflowing with camera toting sexagenarians and even the occasional fish. There are towers, forts and churches around every corner. There's also the very popular Floibanen funicular and Ulriksbanen (Mount Ulriken cable car). Each offer great views over the city and surrounding area. And if that wasn't enough, the city is host to a number of festivals, including the Bergen International Festival, and increasingly major international acts like Rihanna and doing shows in the town. Even with the dizzying number of things to see and do in a small town, for me, it was simply the pretty architecture and quaint side streets that were the main attraction. Especially once you break free from the crowds.

Bergen is really nice, although a little too touristy for my liking (actually WAY too touristy). But it is easy to see why the place appeals to so many. I enjoyed my time there, although i am not exactly in a rush to go back.

Oslo Pace of Life

Backpackers are really missing out. The seemingly oppressive expense of travelling Norway has long kept away budget minded travellers. $100 a day for the most basic food, shelter and transport might be enough to keep anyone away. While Oslo is not exempt from the expense, an unexpected subculture has arisen in the capital which would undoubtedly allure the stereotypical backpacker. Although not as impressive as Stockholm or as quaint as Reykjavik, Oslo offers up a certain funk which would bewitch most backpackers.

Scandinavians always seem to take advantage of the sun while they have it. And Oslo is certainly no exception. Countless outdoor cafes and beer gardens abound with locals and tourists, especially along the pedestrianized Carl Johans Gate. While many of these places in the centre are slightly trendier, it is the East end of the city, south of Torshov that things are a little cooler. Tattoo parlours and piercing shops make sure than local youth are appropriately tagged and labelled. Bars with all sorts of music are around every corner. And while the area might not have the best reputation (especially with the West Enders) it's heaps of fun.

But, of course, the city has it's fair share of culture as well. Home to

the Nobel Foundation, Oslo is littered with excellent museums, galleries and theatres. Not the least of which is the National Gallery. A who's who of the art world can be seen hanging on the walls. And while the Gallery (and other sites in the city) used to be free, they almost all charge these days. The good news is the Oslo Pass makes thing a little more affordable for the museum-o-philes out there. Fact is, you could spend a couple days alone visiting all the museums and such in the city.

For those on more of a budget (hard to do in Oslo) or for those who prefer

the outdoors, the city's Vigeland Park is a definite highlight. With some 200+ granite and bronze statues from Norway's most famous sculptor, Gustav Vigeland, the park is full of quasi-pornographic statues. The centrepiece being the rather unsubtly phallic pillar. Arguably the best part of the park is watching sexagenarian cruise ship tourists overcome their sexual inhibitions to take rather risque pictures in uncomfortably compromising positions. A great opportunity for blackmail photos.

But what i found most surprising was that the best part of the city wasn't mentioned in the guide books. The Akerselva River bisects the capital into the trendy west and the alternative east. Home of the city's industrialization in the 1850s, the old mills and warehouses have been wonderfully retro-fitted into cafes and bars. The adjacent parks is full of joggers and bikers. It is a complete escape from the city.

For those looking for more traditional landmarks, Oslo has a couple

of those too. The new Opera & Ballet House is at the heart of the city's waterfront revitalization project. The somewhat downtrodden area of town is quickly being transformed into a sterile place where the chances of being accosted are diminishing daily (aka boring). The Oslo Castle (Akershus Slott) sits atop an outcropping giving ok-ish views back over the harbour. While the castle itself costs a few NOK (free with the Oslo Pass) the grounds are free to wander around. And that's not to mention the central Royal Palace, worth the slight uphill walk.

It is almost certain that Oslo will never become a budget traveller's Mecca. But i really liked the feel of the place. Part museum, part grunge concert the city pulls off an excellent Jekyll & Hyde. This is not your average Scandinavian capital.