Holy, Erbil!!

For those familiar with guidebooks and other such travel paraphernalia, a common theme of recommendations should be obvious. You can damn near bet your bottom dollar that for any given city in any given country somewhere in the "recommended sights" section will be a cathedral, church, mosque, temple and what-have-you place of religious worship. And why not? They are almost always the most impression architectural site in the city. Well, Erbil (Iraq) may be the exception to the denomination migration.

Perhaps surprisingly, even with Erbil's 8,000 years of history, there isn't much in the way of ancient buildings. And considering it was never an important city, few interesting buildings were ever built. If you couple this with the fact that the former regime wasn't exactly generous with the Kurdish population, it pretty much equates to there is jack all to see other than the Citadel. But there is one new contender vying for the most photogenic honour.

Smack dab downtown, only a stone's throw from the Erbil Citadel is the

Jalil Khayat Mosque. By far the biggest in town, it is also, arguably, the city's most impressive. So using my connecting to the Muffti family (kind of like the religious teamsters in Erbil) i finagled myself an invite inside. The privately funded mosque is hardly ancient, it was finished not more than 20 years ago, but beggars can't be choosers. The interior is certainly ornate. However, if you have visited the Blue Mosque (or any other mosque) in Istanbul, Jalil Khayat pales in comparison. There is little time work, except outside, and most of the details seems to have been stencilled. But many windows were imported from Saudi and closely resemble Yemeni design. It was unclear if non-Muslims are allowed to visit under normal conditions (remember, i was invited by a big-wig) But there's no harm in trying. Just don't go during prayers. Even if you don't get inside, the outside is interesting enough in it's fusion of Arabic and Turkish architectural styles.

Not to be outdone, the Christian Assyrian population in the Erbil suburb

of Ainkawa, have their own unique building. St. Joseph's Church was finished in 1980. Built in the style of a Babylonian ziggurat, the church is certainly eye-catching. The interior is very ordinary, but have the fun of visiting the church is getting in the gate. Due to violence against minority religions (Christianity being one of them), security is taken fairly seriously. "Where from? Christian? Gun?" is the likely breakdown of the interrogation procedure just to get in. Sadly, no pat downs.

Perhaps neither of these building is particularly life changing. Nor would they make a bucket list of "places to see before you die". But they are both cool enough, and with a day or so to spare in Erbil, they could help pass the time.

Charmed by Koya

It really is such a shame. Most travellers to the Iraqi Kurdistan region only know the town of Koya as a place to swap taxis along the "safe" road from Erbil to Sulaymaniyah, largely due to somewhat superficial reporting in a certain guide book. But for those who plan to merely transit this town, they are most sorely missing out.

Perhaps a good start would be to put things in perspective. Koya is never going to win a international tourism award for best anything. In general, the town is non-descipt. Generally speaking, it is a ramshackle collection of ordinary houses and shops which are nothing to write home about. But the setting is nice. Pressed up on a jagged hill hillside that gently melts into a vast valley, roughly half way between major centre of Erbil and Suly and only a stone's throw from the largest lake in the region, Lake Dukan. But it is not the town in it's entirety that is the attraction. For those in the know, this town has some awesome hidden gems.

In order to get your bearings, the best place to start in town is the central

citadel. Although it clearly pales in comparison to the wonderful Citadel in Erbil, it manages to hold it's own. The one in Koya was never really a place of residence. It was, instead, the true definition of a citadel, a fortress. The heavily fortified walls are fun to ramble along as you make your way from tower to tower offering 4 corners of views over the town, mountains and valley. There aren't any official visiting hours, but there is always a guard on hand. If the gates are locked, try knocking. It worked for me.

There are even a couple shrines in town. The most popular being a Christian shrine (Mar Behnam) just to the north as you pass the city's check-point from Erbil. Heaving with local picnicers in the summer, i was surprised to see people braving the cold to BBQ in November when i visited. But while the citadel is cool and the shrines can be fun, they are nowhere near as magnificent as the towns main attraction.

The old market and adjoining old town are amazing. Although not as big as

the one in Suly or as busy as the one in Dohuk, it offers something no other market in Kurdistan does, history. It may sound surprising when i say it's tough to find history in Iraq. But the fact of the matter is, anything old is being thrown to the wayside with preference for the new and shiny. But the market in Koya has been left in it's natural, pure state. Some of the doors and gateways date back to the 13th century and if you're lucky enough to stumble upon the stupendously undiluted central caravansary you are in for a real treat. There are even local artisans working in the decaying building hand-making items like donkey saddles for an absolute bargain basement price. Once outside the market, the ancient old town is a blessing of narrow meandering alleyways where the only traffic will be kids pushing each other around on impromptu 'scooters'. This is the Iraq i wanted to see. I just never expected it to be in Koya.

Getting to Koya is pretty simple. From the shared taxi garage (Koya Garage) near Majidi Mall in Erbil, 1 seat in a car costs 5,000 IQD and takes about an hour.

Koya may not appeal to everyone. No one here speaks English, there is a lot of garbage and hardly anything has been restored. But the rewards of the town astronomically outweigh the petty shortcomings. Best of all, you are guaranteed to be the star attraction as, while there are few tourists in Iraq, there is no one in Koya. One thing's for absolute sure, being only a short shared taxi ride away from Erbil, i'll definitely be going back.

Doublin' Up on Dohuk

During my first visit to Iraqi Kurdistan several years ago, the city of Dohuk was where i broke ground. Although the town was nice enough, i remember a feeling of under-whelm-ment. Recently, with few viable options to get out of Erbil for a day or two, i opted to revisit the city. I'm glad i did.

I was shocked at how much the city has grown, although i guess i shouldn't be. With development running amuck all over Kurdistan at the moment, it should not have been a surprise to see the town expanding to the horizon. But there is still no question where the life of the city is. The central bazar heaves under the footsteps and bargaining of the locals. And visiting during a holiday meant it was even busier. However with a "been there, done that" feeling starting to set in, i headed out to find things i missed out on the first time (or that were new)

Having only been discovered in 2006, the Carsten Sculptures are

Zoroastrian ruins set in the hill around Dohuk, overlooking the Dohuk dam (although the dam wasn't there in Zoroastrian times). Located a short walk outside Dohuk, towards the dam, the ruins require a fair bit of imagination, and 500 IQD to enter. To get there, take the pleasant drainage ditch park located behind the Duski Hotel. Once at the end, follow the road along the river towards the dam. The ruins are up the hill to on the right. The office is well labelled in English. But for me, the reward wasn't the ruins, but the wonderful view over the dam below.

The other nice addition to the city is the Azadi (peace) Park and its adjoining

panorama (of the uncreative same name). Built just off the main road, the park is very popular with local families in the late afternoons. As is the common theme around the country, the green space comes alive with the screams and squeals of children as young couple attempt to steal away kisses hidden from the judging eyes of town elders. But, that sadly, other than the ruins and the park, there wasn't much else to attract my attention. The museum in town is the worst in the country. The amusement parks are just not my thing. But Dohuk has an advantage to travellers far greater than a few mediocre distractions. The city is possibly the best place from which to base yourself to explore other places nearby. It's easy to get to Zakho to see the Delal Bridge (6,000 IQD shared taxi o/w). A day trip to the Yazidi holy town of Lalish including the monastery at Al Kosh can be done for around 50,000 IQD. Or you could go north to Amediyah (25,000 private taxi o/w)

Dohuk is a place that is more than just a sum of its tourism parts. For those quickly passing through, it has enough to fill a day or so. For those with a little more time, it's an excellent base to explore the region. But for those slow travellers, Dohuk offers a very different experience than Erbil or Suly. Either way, no trip to Iraq would be complete without a visit to Dohuk.

Za-kho, Za-kho, Off to the Bridge I Go

There's nothing wrong with Chumbawamba (of Tubthumping fame). They are one of many one-hit wonders that simply weren't able to parlay initial success into a full blown career. The Iraqi border town of Zakho is a bit like that. It is a one-hit wonder that will never really make it on the tourist radar.

Few overland travellers, entering Iraqi Kurdistan from Turkey, bother

to stop in Zakho. It's little wonder why. The town is nice enough and it's safe. And it's setting might even be called pretty with snowcapped mountains in the distance. There are plenty of hotel and cafe options, a rarity in Kurdistan. And plenty of user-friendly transport links (signs in English) to most places in the region. But "functional" is hardly a word used to pull in the tourist masses. The city is just that, a city. There is nothing unique or special about the place unless you're really into Transport spotting as there are more than a few trucks lining up to cross into Turkey.

However, the one thing Zakho does have is a bridge, the Delal Bridge to

be specific. Originally dating back to the Roman era, this 15.5 meter tall 114 meter long bridge is lovely. It doesn't really go to or from anywhere anymore, and the only traffic it sees is that of excited cross border shoppers looking for a photo op. Even the river below is more of a babbling brook (although the water is surprisingly clean for this region) But none of that matters. For bridge-o-philes, the Delal Bridge is something special. And even for laymen, the bridge makes for an interesting diversion and distraction from the otherwise dull border town.

I'm not sure the Delal Bridge warrants a stay in Zakho. The town is fine and might break up a long travel day to/from Turkey. But there are places much higher on the Mediocrity Scale in the country.

Divine Lunchin'

Allow me to begin by saying that despite the title of this blog entry, it has nothing to do with restaurant critiques or Iraqi recipes. My idea of a great meal is not about service or even menu selection, but it is instead about the company one keeps. So i was not about to turn down my most recent lunch invitation.

Perched on top of the "Upside Down Mountain" (Jabal Maqlub), 20 KMs

north of Mosul sits Mar Mattai (St. Matthew's Monastery). Dating back to the 4th century A.D., Mar Mattai is yet another example of Iraq's magnificent, diverse history. St. Matthew (not to be confused with the Biblical Apostle) bounced his way around the region, performing miricles like curing an Assyrian King Behnam's daughter, Sarah, of leprosy. The saint used many of the caves on Jabal Maqlub as a temporary home, eventually the monastery was built to make life a little more comfortable. But more pertinent to the hero of our story, me, it was the place that i was invited to have lunch. A recent graduate of the seminary located at the Mar Mattai site extended the offer from the Mar Mattai's sitting bishop for lunch. And as the old saying goes "When a Bishop is invitin', it'll be excitin'" Ok, it might not be that old a saying.

The monastery and seminary are in full swing, or at least as swingin' as the

current climate in Iraq will allow. With around 8 full-time students on premises and pilgrims visiting all the time, the building is alive. The bishop was a nice guy. Lunch was great. But beyond the opportunity to ingest my recommended daily caloric intake was the chance to learn like the days of yesteryear. In our days of internet and instant access to any information we want with the click of a button, we have forgotten how knowledge was passed throughout the centuries. Academics used to actually seek out sages and scholars to learn first-hand the events which have defined the passage of time. It beat the heck out of a National Geographic documentary.

For the average traveller, there's good news and bad news about a visit to Mar Mattai. The good news is anyone is welcome. Beyond merely visiting, you can stay in the rooms for a day or week or as long as you wish. There are basic toilet and cooking facilities. The bad news is, it's in the middle of nowhere. There is no public transport, meaning a private taxi will run around $100.

Mar Mattai is a beautiful building. And the setting on Jabal Maqtub overlooking the Ninevah Plains is awesome. And the monks are friendly. The place has every makings of a great destination, if it weren't for the difficulty of reaching the location. But for those with a few extra dollars to burn, or are lucky enough to snag an invite, Mar Mattai will be an unforgettable destination in Iraq.