The fact of the matter is, sometimes travelling is downright exhausting. Fighting with taxi drivers, searching for a hotel preferably not featured in a Quentin Tarantino film, all while fighting off a stomach bug brought up by something which may not have been entirely dead at the time of ingestion. Frankly, there are time when you need a holiday from your vacation. Luckily, if travelling through north-western Ethiopia, there's just a place to fit the bill. The totally chillaxed lake-side town of Bahir Dar.
Bahir Dar (translating as "Sea Shore") is a great little town. Wide, palm 
lined streets with little traffic is a novelty in Ethiopia. With the exception of around the bus station, the touts which plague most other tourist destinations in the country are all but missing. And the local affinity for dining on second story floor removes one from beggars glances, while still allowing for clandestine people watching. True there is nothing to see or do in the town itself. There is little of architectural relevance or cultural significance. It is pleasant to stroll along the lakeside boardwalk. Although the LP claims it's hassle, or even dangerous, i saw nor heard no evidence of this. But for those wishing to do a little more than relax, the fact that Bahir sits on the shores of Lake Tana might be appealing.
lined streets with little traffic is a novelty in Ethiopia. With the exception of around the bus station, the touts which plague most other tourist destinations in the country are all but missing. And the local affinity for dining on second story floor removes one from beggars glances, while still allowing for clandestine people watching. True there is nothing to see or do in the town itself. There is little of architectural relevance or cultural significance. It is pleasant to stroll along the lakeside boardwalk. Although the LP claims it's hassle, or even dangerous, i saw nor heard no evidence of this. But for those wishing to do a little more than relax, the fact that Bahir sits on the shores of Lake Tana might be appealing.
Although not on any lists of "World's Largest Lakes" and not terribly
deep (a maximum of 15 metres), Lake Tana is not a bad body of water. Size, in this case, most certainly doesn't matter. It is here that the Blue Nile river is born. It's easy enough to head to the mouth, or more interesting the Blue Nile Falls near the village of Tes Abay. The Blue Nile, later down stream (in Khartoum, Sudan), combines with the White Nile to form the historically crucial Nile River. One of the more interesting things about the lake is the way people get around. Ancient papyrus/reed boats are still in full use on Lake Tana. Although not endemic to the area (they've been used in Egypt, South America and the even Corfu) the tradition is still interesting to see. If you want, you can even pick up some fresh fish.
deep (a maximum of 15 metres), Lake Tana is not a bad body of water. Size, in this case, most certainly doesn't matter. It is here that the Blue Nile river is born. It's easy enough to head to the mouth, or more interesting the Blue Nile Falls near the village of Tes Abay. The Blue Nile, later down stream (in Khartoum, Sudan), combines with the White Nile to form the historically crucial Nile River. One of the more interesting things about the lake is the way people get around. Ancient papyrus/reed boats are still in full use on Lake Tana. Although not endemic to the area (they've been used in Egypt, South America and the even Corfu) the tradition is still interesting to see. If you want, you can even pick up some fresh fish.
But the main attraction, which brings the tourists in, is what you can find
on the 37ish islands which dot the lake. A number of the islands are graced with Orthodox monasteries, each dating back some 300-400 years. Little putt-putt motorboats ply the lake bringing travellers and pilgrims alike to any one of the dozen or so buildings. It's slow going, and some of the islands are quite far away. Frankly, there is little to no need to see all (or even more than a couple) of the monasteries. It's best to pick and choose, preferably the closer ones. The easiest to access are Ura Kidane Meret (on the Zege peninsula not an island) and Kabran Gabriel (only open to men). Each monastery now charges admission which is another reason to only pop into a few. While the buildings themselves are quite simple, some of the mural work is rather exquisite. The trip makes for a pleasant half-day+.
on the 37ish islands which dot the lake. A number of the islands are graced with Orthodox monasteries, each dating back some 300-400 years. Little putt-putt motorboats ply the lake bringing travellers and pilgrims alike to any one of the dozen or so buildings. It's slow going, and some of the islands are quite far away. Frankly, there is little to no need to see all (or even more than a couple) of the monasteries. It's best to pick and choose, preferably the closer ones. The easiest to access are Ura Kidane Meret (on the Zege peninsula not an island) and Kabran Gabriel (only open to men). Each monastery now charges admission which is another reason to only pop into a few. While the buildings themselves are quite simple, some of the mural work is rather exquisite. The trip makes for a pleasant half-day+. 
Bahir Dar offers something few other places in Ethiopia do, relaxation. Including the option of staying at the fancy-pants Kurfitu Resort & Spa. On top of which, with a few interesting day trips, relaxation need not turn into boredom. Heck even the drive in from Addis Ababa is a pretty one. True, it may not be the most spectacular part of the country, but i'd have to say it was one of my favourites.
1 comments:
the red soil reminds a little bit of Atlas mountains in Morocco. Nice pictures, thanks!
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