A Berbera Bereft

This may come as a bit of a surprise, but the self-proclaimed Republic of Somaliland is not exactly a profusion of pleasurable places to peruse. After visiting the capital of the republic, Hargeisa, or some ancient rock paintings at Las Geel, then the only place left to check out is the fishing port of Berbera.

Berbera used to be something really cool. Berbera has always been

a port. I believe "Since forever" would be an appropriate scientific term. So when the colonial powers were deciding who would get what piece of the African pie which they took upon themselves to do, Berbera flourished. The era certainly left it's mark. The city is overflowing with colonial period architecture virtually un-restored since that period. The years after the Europeans pulled out, they left the artificially created borders. This did not bode well for the local Africans. War followed. Varies wars of various people fighting over the same thing, land. Berbera did not fair well. With Somaliland told to unite with Somalia, years of “bad times”. More war arose. Berbera is a bit like a mule beaten over the years, but still battling on. But the people here, too, have aged liked the architecture. I've long been a believer that people make a place memorable for me. People make a country, not buildings.

I was pleasantly surprised by my experience in Hargeisa. The people

were kind, honest and genuinely curious. Nobody really wanted anything but a handshake and a “hello”. I found Hargeisa welcoming. Not Berbera. With the exception of island folk, coastal fishermen are rarely a congenial sort. Distant and borderline surly were my impression of the people here. I guess a few rotten apples spoil the lot, right? Well, people here specifically told me, in English, “We no needs Canadians tourist”, “We no needs Christians”, “do your business, go away!”. The waiter seemed annoyed that i had ruined his nap with my presence in his restaurant. “Menu?”, i asked. “No menu” the waiter answered with great indifference. “What do you have?” i asked logically. “We have fish.” he said with as much distain as his indifference would allow. Gone was the rock-star sensation of walking around the block. Berbera was gritty.

But there is an attraction. Once you get past all the garbage and overwhelming stench of sunbaked fish heads lining the path, Berbera opens up to you. The beaches are long, impossibly long. And they range from surprisingly clean to borderline pristine. Frolicking on the beach, baring too much in some sort of swimwear designed by Speedo's European design team would be considered somewhat disrespectful to locals. But you can get far enough from anybody that it won't matter. Do keep in mind, though, the long natural “pier” topped with a lighthouse at the end, is an active military zone, and they don't take too kindly to visitors.I get it. You make all the effort to get to Somaliland, and you want

to see more than just Hargeisa. But i'm not sure it's worth it. Firstly, all hotels will tell you that you must go escorted at all times when outside Hargeisa. This is only half-true. What they fail to tell you is if you go to the main police station (not the central station) in Hargeisa, and you are lucky enough to find the Commissioner, he can give you permission to use public transport. If you go escorted, it could cost as much as $189. Public transport is around $5 (depending on vehicle and position in that vehicle). There is an International airport at Berbera, and Jubba air will transport you there from Hargeisa if you have a reservation with them. But again, i'm not sure it's worth it. I figure, if in the area with extra time, why not? But it shouldn't be a primary destination, not yet.