A Blue Nile Shower

Sometimes we need a bit of a reality check, a kick in the pants to remind us just how small we really are. Sure, we got to the moon or invented Twinkies or whatever major advancement by mankind, but there's a seemingly instinctual reason why we seek to be awed by the power and glory of nature. While in northern Ethiopia, i set out to do just that.

While Lake Tana may not rank in the chronicles of “World's largest lakes”, it has a far more significant claim to fame. The outlet of Lake Tana is the birthplace of the Blue Nile. This same river, later downstream in Khartoum, Sudan, combines with the White Nile to form the Nile River. This waterway is unquestionably one of the most important (if not the most important) body of water throughout human history. But, as the lake squeezes into it's slimming river form, it's actually rather undramatic. That is until it reaches some 32 km down river, near the village of Tis Abay. It is here that the sluggish river explodes into one of the most beautiful waterfalls in the region, the Blue Nile Falls. Or well, it used to. That was before some guys came along and built a huge dam to block most of the water.

Nowadays, it takes a bit of luck to see the falls in their former glory. Depending on the rain fall or the hydroelectric needs at the time, the falls can be anywhere from not bad to virtually non-existent. On the day i visited, in early January, it was certainly at the low end of the impressive-ness scale. Even the locals said, “it's not much more than a shower”. But even without the grand finale, the days opening acts made it worth while.

As one get to town, they are immediately shown to the park entrance (where a fee is paid). Although guides are offered, they aren't really necessary.There are 2 options of how to reach the falls (or lack there of). To the east is the 17^th century Portuguese Bridge. Set in a nice little valley, it's a pretty little structure. From there, the obvious (although unsigned) footpath leads you through a tiny village where you are sure to be accosted by young girls trying to sell whatever given souvenirs they happen to have in stock (usually scarves) Once past them, the path inclines a bit until reaching a zenith. From here it's all downhill (literally) Fortunately, for those not wanting to break too much of a sweat, a newly constructed suspension bridge makes for quite a short cut to the falls. Depending on the water level, you can get surprisingly close to the cascading water, or chose to sit with some local women for a cup of local coffee.From this point, the path follows the western route (or boat route).
Much easier than the eastern path, the flat terrain eventually leads to the Blue Nile itself. Here, motorboats await tourists to ferry them across for 10 Birr. There are also the more simple tankwas which make the crossing, but apparently, tourist are forbidden from taking this. After not more than 2 minutes, the path on the other side of the river lead back to the starting point in the village. The whole thing won't take more than 90 minutes, including substantial break to catch your breath which you expertly mask as photo ops.Most hotels and tour companies in Bahir Dar of the falls trip as a half-day excursion. For those feeling a little more adventurous, public buses ply the way for a fraction of the price (although more time). For me, the bus trip was almost half the fun. Locals in their traditional garb and various tattooing patterns overload the antiquated transport on their way to sell their sugar cane or pottery in the next village. It's an anthropological dream. However, while catching the bus in Bahir Dar is easy, getting back requires a little more skill. There are FAR more people than places and the embarkation procedure can get rather aggressive. Local boys can fight for your seat, for a price. Alternatively, you can pay a few Birr more to get on the bus up the road, ahead of the locals. This may seem unfair, but frankly it's the only possible way to do it.

Even if the falls are uncooperative on the day of your trip, heading out to the area while in Bahir Dar is still worth it, if for nothing else than the people watching opportunities.