Back in the day, let's say 1636, then Emperor Fasiladas seeing that Gonder
had promise, opted to move his capital to the area. And why not? Surrounded by fertile land, on the crossroads of several major trading routes linking the greater region and only a stone's throw from Lake Tana, Gondar was the perfect storm for empire building. And build an empire they did. But as opposed to conquering and exhausting the treasury with pointless battles, Gondar let the riches come to them (for the most part). The little agricultural settlement grew into a metropolis (60,000+ people), and with their riches came castles, royal baths and religious buildings. For more than a century the capital grew in reputation, as well as pomp and pageantry, before inevitably falling due to infighting (which most empires do). But today, the UNSECO listed site still has plenty to see.
Various buildings are scattered about the large site, all included for the 100 Birr
entrance fee. True, the buildings are more impressive for there sheer size as opposed to intricate detail, but here and there are a few little accents of artistry for those more focused on the smaller things. How long you spend in the complex is certainly a personal thing. Some travellers may spend hours, all in a half daze, soaking up the history of the place. While others may be more than happy to quickly breeze through snapping up a few photos as evidence of their visit. Personally, i found the complex quite peaceful (certainly if compared to the rest of the town) if you can find your own little spot. Sitting under the shade of a tree in the garden, off the path of the invading tour groups, isn't such a bad way to spend an afternoon. Unfortunately, unlike a ticket into Lalibela, the Gondar admission ticket is only valid for 1 day.
Also rather unfortunately, once out of the Royal Enclosure, you are
left with the "modern" city of Gondar. Occupying forces from Italy, and liberating bombing of the British have left their marks. Although not a horrible place, it leaves much to be desired. The surprisingly busy streets, and lack of sidewalks, make Gondar a less than ideal place to wander around. And perhaps more than most other places in the country, it is difficult to walk more than a few metres without someone trying to sell you something. More often than not a guided expedition to the Simien Mountains, for which Gondar is the usually hopping off point. As a city, is was one of my least favourite in the country.
It is no surprise why Gondar is one of the main tourist destinations for travellers to the region. UNESCO quality site easily accessed by plane, or even the elite public transport SkyBus, make a visit to Gondar a no-brainer. And for those wanting to head into the beautiful Simien Mountains, it makes for a logical place to launch an expedition. Gondar may have hit it's peak in the 17th century, but the tourism industry is still going strong.
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