The village of Lalibela, in Northern Ethiopia, served as the country's
capital in the 12th and 13th centuries. The founder and then emperor, St. Gebre Mesqel Lalibela, had visited Jerusalem and, being a devout Christian, was saddened that the holy capital had been captured by Muslims. He was determined to build a new Jerusalem in his homeland of Ethiopia. Endevouring on a mighty project, he began to build a series of churches which eventually numbered 13 churches in 4 different groupings. But what makes these churches so unbelievably spectacular is they were carved out of the rock. Not "of" rock or "on" rock or even on the rock "face", but they are negative rock impressions as the devout builders dug in the rocky mountain terrain. While they may not be as ornate as the buildings at Petra, Jordan, the churches of Lalibela are 3D, not just engravings. And the interiors are larger than the misrepresented hovels of Petra.
capital in the 12th and 13th centuries. The founder and then emperor, St. Gebre Mesqel Lalibela, had visited Jerusalem and, being a devout Christian, was saddened that the holy capital had been captured by Muslims. He was determined to build a new Jerusalem in his homeland of Ethiopia. Endevouring on a mighty project, he began to build a series of churches which eventually numbered 13 churches in 4 different groupings. But what makes these churches so unbelievably spectacular is they were carved out of the rock. Not "of" rock or "on" rock or even on the rock "face", but they are negative rock impressions as the devout builders dug in the rocky mountain terrain. While they may not be as ornate as the buildings at Petra, Jordan, the churches of Lalibela are 3D, not just engravings. And the interiors are larger than the misrepresented hovels of Petra.
True, the rather unattractive awnings put in place to protect the churches
is a bit of an eyesore. But the churches are magnificent. While it is not compulsory to take a guide, they sure come in handy navigating the 3 groups (the 4th is kind of far away). Bobbing and weaving in and out of secret passageways and doorways only to emerge at a wonderful building is all part of the jaw dropping experience of Laibela. The Northern group and Eastern group seem to get the most pilgrims (Lalibela is one of the most holy sites in the country who still make pilgrimages there today). But it is, in my opinion, the Western groups Bete Giyorgis (St. George) which is the star of the show. With it's unmistakable cross formation, visible from above it is easily the most impressive of an already impressive site
is a bit of an eyesore. But the churches are magnificent. While it is not compulsory to take a guide, they sure come in handy navigating the 3 groups (the 4th is kind of far away). Bobbing and weaving in and out of secret passageways and doorways only to emerge at a wonderful building is all part of the jaw dropping experience of Laibela. The Northern group and Eastern group seem to get the most pilgrims (Lalibela is one of the most holy sites in the country who still make pilgrimages there today). But it is, in my opinion, the Western groups Bete Giyorgis (St. George) which is the star of the show. With it's unmistakable cross formation, visible from above it is easily the most impressive of an already impressive site
Arguably, what puts Lalibela heads and shoulders above most other world
monuments is the fact it is a living place. Priests and pilgrims still flock to the site, some seemingly as old as the stone churches themselves. No time of the year is more spectacular for people watching than Orthodox Christmas. I timed my visit to be a few days before Christmas itself (as it gets rather busy for Christmas). Spectacularly splendid, being at the churches as the devout arrive is nothing short of magic. Early mornings are filled with the chantings of parishioners as endless rows on rows of draped faithful make their rounds. It is easily one of the best experiences i have ever had.
monuments is the fact it is a living place. Priests and pilgrims still flock to the site, some seemingly as old as the stone churches themselves. No time of the year is more spectacular for people watching than Orthodox Christmas. I timed my visit to be a few days before Christmas itself (as it gets rather busy for Christmas). Spectacularly splendid, being at the churches as the devout arrive is nothing short of magic. Early mornings are filled with the chantings of parishioners as endless rows on rows of draped faithful make their rounds. It is easily one of the best experiences i have ever had.
Now, it would be a safe assumption that such a spectacular site, most
certainly on the radar of every traveller in the region, would be sadly ruined by mass tourism. But what is possibly the most amazing thing about Lalibela is it is not. It is common for such a place to become overrun with tourist shops, touts and scammers. Typically, 1 or 2 families (or dominant tribe) will have a monopoly over all goings-on in the village. But Lalibela is different. While tourism is most welcome it is handled with grace. Guides MUST be accredited and "amateurs" are quickly scolded by others if they try their luck. But above all, Lalibela is actually 9 village melded into one. While only 2 of these villages have churches, there is profit sharing among all 9. The pricey ticket, 350 Birr, is valid for 3 days (though few stay that long). While the village is not devoid of hassle (this is Ethiopia after all), it is one of the most hassle-free places in the country.
certainly on the radar of every traveller in the region, would be sadly ruined by mass tourism. But what is possibly the most amazing thing about Lalibela is it is not. It is common for such a place to become overrun with tourist shops, touts and scammers. Typically, 1 or 2 families (or dominant tribe) will have a monopoly over all goings-on in the village. But Lalibela is different. While tourism is most welcome it is handled with grace. Guides MUST be accredited and "amateurs" are quickly scolded by others if they try their luck. But above all, Lalibela is actually 9 village melded into one. While only 2 of these villages have churches, there is profit sharing among all 9. The pricey ticket, 350 Birr, is valid for 3 days (though few stay that long). While the village is not devoid of hassle (this is Ethiopia after all), it is one of the most hassle-free places in the country.
But the village has more to offer than just a couple of well-managed
churches. The lively market in town, although a challenge to walk up and down the slopes, is oodles of fun. Best on Saturdays, it's still a fun place to visit any other day of the week. And for those wanting a bit of an escape, several of the hotels in town offer lovely gardens to lunch in while a myriad of birds vie for attention (Seven Olives is recommended). Views over the wonderful landscape while sipping on a rather strong Ethiopian coffee is a great way to relax after all the sightseeing.
churches. The lively market in town, although a challenge to walk up and down the slopes, is oodles of fun. Best on Saturdays, it's still a fun place to visit any other day of the week. And for those wanting a bit of an escape, several of the hotels in town offer lovely gardens to lunch in while a myriad of birds vie for attention (Seven Olives is recommended). Views over the wonderful landscape while sipping on a rather strong Ethiopian coffee is a great way to relax after all the sightseeing.I have, admittedly, become quite jaded over my 20 years and 100+ countries of travel. It is difficult to impress me. I don't know if i got up on the right side of bed, or perhaps my coffee was laced with happy-pills, but i simply cannot say enough about Lalibela. Spectacular buildings, spiritual pilgrims, lovely nature and all of it (relatively) hassle free. Screw the New 7 World Wonders farce, Lalibela is on my 7 wonders list.
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